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The Joseon pharmacopoeia

All the ingredients
of Korean beauty.

More than forty active ingredients studied in depth: scientific mechanisms, measured benefits, ancestral history at the Joseon palace. Click on an ingredient to explore its full profile.

47 documented ingredients
7 categories
90j traditional fermentations
Fermented

Fermented rice

Oryza sativa ferment filtrate

발효쌀 (Balhyo-ssal)

The signature ingredient of Korean skincare. Rice, fermented for 60 to 90 days by lactic acid bacteria and natural yeasts, releases a water-…

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Plant

Red ginseng

Panax ginseng

홍삼 (Hongsam)

The most precious root in Korean pharmacopoeia. Grown for six years in Geumsan before being harvested, steamed and dried until it turns red,…

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Plant

Centella asiatica

Centella asiatica

병풀 (Byeongpul)

Nicknamed 'tiger grass' because wounded tigers rolled in it to heal. Centella concentrates four triterpenes — asiaticoside, madecassoside, a…

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Plant

Mugwort

Artemisia princeps

쑥 (Ssuk)

The sacred herb at the foundation of Korea. According to the Dangun myth, the first Korean woman was a bear transformed by 100 days in a cav…

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Beekeeping

Propolis

Propolis cera

프로폴리스

The resin that bees produce to protect their hive from bacteria and viruses. Applied to the skin, Korean propolis — harvested from the Gangw…

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Beekeeping

Korean honey

Mel coreanum

한국꿀 (Hangukkkul)

Korean honey — produced raw and unheated by the beekeepers of Jeolla — contains an exceptional concentration of living enzymes (glucose oxid…

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Plant

Green tea

Camellia sinensis

녹차 (Nokcha)

Korean green tea — mainly grown in Boseong and Hadong, on misty terraces that produce the leaves richest in catechins in the world. Applied…

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Plant

Camellia

Camellia japonica

동백 (Dongbaek)

The precious oil obtained from cold-pressed seeds of the camellia flower, which grows wild on the island of Jeju. Its lipid composition is e…

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Bioactive

Niacinamide

Niacinamide (Vitamine B3)

나이아신아마이드

The amide form of vitamin B3, one of the best-studied actives in global cosmetics and a pillar of K-beauty. Compatible with virtually every…

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Bioactive

Hyaluronic acid

Sodium hyaluronate

히알루론산

A molecule naturally present in the dermis, capable of holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water. In cosmetics, it exists in several mol…

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Plant

Bamboo

Bambusa vulgaris

대나무 (Daenamu)

The highest natural concentration of silica (silicic acid) in the plant kingdom — up to 70% of dry weight. This silica is essential to colla…

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Animal

Snail mucin

Snail secretion filtrate

달팽이 점액 (Dalpaeng-i jeomaek)

One of the most studied actives of recent K-beauty. The filtered secretion of snails — harvested ethically without harming the animal — cont…

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Bioactive

Betaine

Betaina (de Beta vulgaris)

베타인

A natural osmoprotectant extracted from beetroot, capable of preserving the osmotic balance of cells in a dehydrated environment. Betaine is…

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Fruit

Yuzu

Citrus junos

유자 (Yuja)

The East Asian hybrid citrus — a cross between mandarin and papeda — with an inimitable fresh and woody citrus fragrance. Beyond its olfacto…

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Plant

Houttuynia Cordata

Houttuynia cordata

어성초 (Eoseongcho)

Nicknamed 'fish herb' because of its distinctive smell, eoseongcho is one of the most powerful medicinal plants in the Korean pharmacopoeia.…

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Plant

Magnolia

Magnolia kobus

목련 (Mokryeon)

Korean magnolia bark contains two unique bisphenols — magnolol and honokiol — with exceptional anti-inflammatory and antibacterial propertie…

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Plant

Lotus

Nelumbo nucifera

연꽃 (Yeonkkot)

The sacred flower of Buddhism — a symbol of purity that emerges from the mud unsullied. Korean lotus brings the skin a rare combination: ant…

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Marine

Laminaria seaweed

Laminaria japonica

다시마 (Dasima)

The giant kelp of the East Korean coast, harvested in Pohang and Ulleungdo. Rich in minerals (iodine, magnesium, calcium), in hydrating algi…

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Plant

Peony

Paeonia lactiflora

작약 (Jakyak)

The peony root — not the flower — is one of the most precious ingredients in traditional pharmacopoeia. It contains paeoniflorins and albifl…

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Plant

Ginkgo Biloba

Ginkgo biloba

은행 (Eunhaeng)

The oldest tree still living on Earth — 270 million years old. Its leaves concentrate unique flavonoids (ginkgolides, bilobalides) with anti…

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Fruit

Peach

Prunus persica

복숭아 (Boksunga)

The fruit of longevity in Asian culture. Peach brings the skin a cocktail of vitamins (A, C, E), polyphenols and humectant sugars. Its extra…

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Fermented

Brown rice bran

Oryza sativa bran

쌀겨 (Ssalkkyeo)

The outer layer of the brown rice grain — the richest part of the grain, which is removed to produce white rice. The bran contains 80% of th…

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Bioactive

Salicylic acid (BHA)

Salicylic acid

살리실산

The most studied beta-hydroxy acid in cosmetics: lipid-soluble, it penetrates into the pores and dislodges the oxidized sebum responsible fo…

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Bioactive

AHA (fruit acids)

Alpha-hydroxy acids

AHA (알파-하이드록시산)

Family of water-soluble acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic) derived from fruits and milk. They exfoliate dead surface cells to reveal…

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Bioactive

Ceramides

Ceramides

세라마이드

The natural lipids that form 50% of the intercellular cement of the stratum corneum. Without ceramides, the skin loses its tightness and bec…

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Fermented

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Bifida ferment lysate

비피다 발효 용해물

The lysate of Bifidobacterium bacteria, fermented in a nutrient medium. Pioneered by IOPE and Numbuzin in Korea, it is one of the most power…

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Bioactive

Retinol

Retinol (Vitamine A)

레티놀

The absolute anti-aging reference — the only cosmetic active whose stimulation of collagen is validated by decades of studies. Numbuzin and…

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Bioactive

Peptides

Peptides (chaînes d'acides aminés)

펩타이드

Short protein fragments (2 to 50 amino acids) that act as cellular messengers. Depending on their sequence, they signal collagen production,…

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Fruit

Noni

Morinda citrifolia

노니

The tropical fruit rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, used in Polynesian medicine for 2,000 years. Celimax popularized it in Korea…

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Marine

Jeju volcanic clay

Jeju volcanic clay

제주 화산 점토

Drawn from the volcanic soils of Jeju Island, classified a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This clay concentrates unique minerals (magnesium, calc…

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Plant

Birch sap

Betula platyphylla sap

자작나무 수액

The crystal-clear water that circulates in the birch in spring, traditionally harvested in Siberia, Poland and Korea. Round Lab has made it…

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Fermented

Fermented black rice

Oryza sativa black ferment

흑미 발효액

The dark cousin of white rice, Korean black rice (heuk-mi) contains 5 times more anthocyanins than white rice — the same antioxidant pigment…

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Marine

Pearl powder

Pearl powder

진주 분말

Oyster pearls ground into a microfine powder, the imperial ingredient of royal Korean cosmetics. The History of Whoo makes it its signature…

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Plant

Bamboo charcoal

Bamboo charcoal

대나무 숯

Bamboo carbonized at very high temperature becomes an ultra-porous charcoal capable of absorbing up to 200 times its weight in impurities. U…

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Plant

Rose centifolia

Rosa centifolia

장미 (센티폴리아)

The 'hundred-leaved rose' of Grasse — cultivated for high perfumery since the 17th century. Its floral water, steam-distilled, contains soot…

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Fermented

Fermented yuzu

Citrus junos ferment

유자 발효액

Korean citrus yuzu (yuja), fermented for 100 days in celadon jars. Fermentation transforms its vitamin C into bioavailable forms and release…

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Plant

Magnolia bark

Magnolia officinalis bark

후박 (Hupak)

The dried bark of the official magnolia — a pillar of traditional Korean medicine (hupak). It concentrates magnolol and honokiol, two bisphe…

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Bioactive

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol

바쿠치올

Extracted from the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia, bakuchiol is a natural alternative to retinol — with comparable efficacy on wrinkles a…

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Bioactive

Squalane

Squalane

스쿠알란

Stabilized and hydrogenated version of squalene — a lipid naturally present at 12% in human sebum. Now sourced from olive or sugarcane (no a…

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Bioactive

Tranexamic acid

Tranexamic acid

트라넥삼산

Synthetic derivative of lysine, initially developed as an antihemorrhagic agent. A recent discovery: applied to the skin, it powerfully inhi…

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Bioactive

Allantoin

Allantoin

알란토인

Compound naturally present in comfrey, wheat and oak leaves. Identified as early as the 19th century as healing and soothing, it is today on…

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Marine

Thermal water

Thermal water

온천수

Spring water loaded with minerals (silica, calcium, sodium, selenium) from geological depths. Korean thermal waters (Onyang, Suanbo, Bugok)…

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Plant

Tremella (silver mushroom)

Tremella fuciformis

흰목이

The Asian silver mushroom, nicknamed 'plant hyaluronic': its polysaccharides hold 500 times their weight in water, with molecules smaller th…

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Bioactive

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid

아젤라산

Dicarboxylic acid naturally present in grains (barley, wheat, rye). Remarkable triple action: anti-acne, anti-redness (rosacea) and anti-spo…

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Plant

Pine buds

Pinus densiflora bud

소나무 새순

The young shoots of Korean pine (Pinus densiflora), picked in spring. Rich in chlorophyll, vitamins E and C, terpenes and phytoncides. Gemmo…

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Fermented

Fermented soy

Soya bean ferment

콩 발효액

Soy, fermented for 90 days according to the traditional Korean method (similar to doenjang), releases a unique cocktail: isoflavones (genist…

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Bioactive

Mandelic acid

Mandelic acid

만델산

The gentlest of the AHAs, derived from bitter almonds. Its molecule is 4× larger than that of glycolic — it penetrates less deeply and cause…

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Going further

Discover the rituals that combine them.

Read our editorial articles on glass skin, the morning routine and the secrets of the Joseon palace.

The Joseon Journal