Fermenté
Fermented rice
Oryza sativa ferment filtrate · 발효쌀 (Balhyo-ssal)
The signature ingredient of Korean skincare. Rice, fermented for 60 to 90 days by lactic acid bacteria and natural yeasts, releases a water-light essence extraordinarily rich in niacinamide, kojic acid, gamma-oryzanol and essential amino acids — each one too large in raw rice to penetrate the skin, and now hydrolyzed into short peptides able to cross it.
Type de peau
All skin types — particularly beneficial for dull, dehydrated, spot-prone skin.
Concentration
Recommended concentration: 5 to 90% depending on the formulation (essence = very concentrated).
Compatibilité
Pairs well with: niacinamide, peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, ginseng, centella. Avoid with: benzoyl peroxide.
Bénéfices sur la peau
- Stratum corneum hydration: +52 to +68% at 14 days (corneometer measurement)
- Brightening of hyperpigmentation spots (kojic acid)
- Regulation of melanin production (niacinamide)
- Smoothing of roughness: -22 to -34% at 28 days
- Reinforcement of the skin barrier
- Antioxidant protection (gamma-oryzanol)
Comment ça agit, scientifiquement
Fermentation acidifies the medium to pH 4.5-5 — exactly the natural pH of the skin — and produces actives that do not exist in raw rice. Penetration of the stratum corneum is optimal, without irritation. Gamma-oryzanol acts as a light UV shield, niacinamide modulates the transformation of pro-melanin into melanin, and kojic acid inhibits the tyrosinase responsible for dark spots.
Tradition coréenne
Histoire et usage ancestral
At the Joseon palace, the Gungnyeo court ladies washed the queen's face morning and evening with fermented rice water prepared in earthenware jars buried beneath the palace courtyards. The Donguibogam (1613) devotes several passages to this practice. Even today, certain aristocratic families in Yeoju still prepare their essence according to the original protocols.
Comment l'utiliser
- 01 First watery layer after cleansing, on warm skin
- 02 Pat by pressing with the hands, never rub
- 03 Compatible morning and evening, all skin types
- 04 Space 2-3 minutes apart from strong actives (retinol, salicylic acid)