Fiche scientifique · Plante
Centella asiatica
Centella asiatica · 병풀 (Byeongpul)
Nicknamed 'tiger grass' because wounded tigers rolled in it to heal. Centella concentrates four triterpenes — asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid — that soothe redness, heal micro-lesions, and rebuild the skin barrier. It is the king ingredient for reactive skin in K-beauty.
01 · Type de peau
Sensitive, reactive skin, prone to rosacea, acne-prone, post-aesthetic procedure.
02 · Concentration efficace
Recommended concentration: 0.1 to 5% standardized extract (CICA + triterpene acids).
03 · Compatibilité
Pairs well with: panthenol, hyaluronic acid, fermented rice, mugwort, madecassoside, allantoin. Avoid combining with: strong retinol, concentrated AHA/BHA.
Bénéfices mesurés
Ce que la science observe
Reduction of redness and inflammation
Accelerated healing of micro-lesions
Reinforcement of the skin barrier
Soothing of sensitive skin / rosacea
Stimulation of collagen synthesis
Calming effect after UV or acids
Mécanisme
Action moléculaire
Madecassoside and asiaticoside activate fibroblasts and stimulate the synthesis of type I collagen. In parallel, they inhibit the NF-κB inflammatory cascade, explaining the immediate soothing effect. Asiatic acid strengthens the tight junctions between keratinocytes (barrier).
Origine et tradition
Du palais aux laboratoires
Centella grows wild in the humid zones of the Korean peninsula. For centuries, peasants applied a compress of it to wounds and insect bites. The Donguibogam cites it under the name 'jichu-hwa' to treat skin inflammation. K-beauty rediscovered it in the 2010s — it has become the most formulated ingredient in the country.
Protocole d'application
Mode d'emploi clinique
- Étape 01 In a 'calming' serum or soothing cream
- Étape 02 Apply in thin layers, several times a day if redness occurs
- Étape 03 Ideal after sun exposure or peeling
- Étape 04 Visible effect on inflammation in 7 to 14 days