Fiche scientifique · Bioactif
AHA (fruit acids)
Alpha-hydroxy acids · AHA (알파-하이드록시산)
Family of water-soluble acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic) derived from fruits and milk. They exfoliate dead surface cells to reveal smoother, more luminous, more even skin. COSRX and Some By Mi have made them the stars of their liquid exfoliants.
01 · Type de peau
Dull skin, spots, rough texture, first wrinkles.
02 · Concentration efficace
5-10% in mainstream cosmetics; above that = professional peeling.
03 · Compatibilité
Pairs well with: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, centella. Avoid with: retinol, BHA, vitamin C on the same evening.
Bénéfices mesurés
Ce que la science observe
Gentle chemical exfoliation
Immediate radiance and smoothing
Fading of superficial spots
Texture refinement
Stimulation of cell renewal
Improved penetration of other actives
Mécanisme
Action moléculaire
AHAs dissolve the corneocyte bonds (desmosomes) that hold dead cells on the surface. Glycolic (the smallest molecule, 76 g/mol) penetrates the deepest. Lactic is gentler and more hydrating. Mandelic is the best tolerated on sensitive skin.
Origine et tradition
Du palais aux laboratoires
Cleopatra bathed in fermented mare's milk (rich in lactic acid). Scientific cosmetic use dates back to the 1970s. K-beauty generally uses them in reasonable doses (5-10%) rather than as an aggressive peel.
Protocole d'application
Mode d'emploi clinique
- Étape 01 Serum or toner 2-3 times per week, in the evening
- Étape 02 Start once a week then increase
- Étape 03 SPF mandatory the next day
- Étape 04 Do not combine with retinol on the same evening